3racing Sakura D4 – Find The Internet Vendors That Supply The Most Competitively Priced 3racing Sakura D4.

The realm of RC has several different facets; there’s really something for everybody. One of the areas I’ve set my sights on mastering may be the drift segment. It basically goes against everything I’ve learned with regards to driving sliding is preferable to grip, more power does not necessarily mean a faster vehicle and tire compounds, well, plastic is better than rubber. Then when 3Racing sent over their Axial SCX10, I had to scoop one up to see what each of the hoopla was using this type of drifter.

Instantly

WHO Can Make It: 3Racing

WHO IT’S FOR: Any degree of drift enthusiast

PART NUMBER: KIT-D4AWD

HOW MUCH: $115.00

BUILD TYPE: Kit

PROS

• AWD for convenient learning ?

• Narrow 3mm FRP chassis ?

• Wide, high-angle dual bellcrank steering ?

• Highly adjustable front, Y-arm suspension ?

• Battery positioning ahead of the motor or on the rear diffuser ?

• Aluminum motor mount ?

• Threaded shocks ?A lot of tuning adjustment ?

• Extremely affordable pric

CONS

• Front drive belt slips off the roller bearing

REVIEWER’S OPINION

This drifter has considerably going for it; well manufactured, lots of pretty aluminum and rolls in with a very affordable price. Handling is great as well as soon as you get accustomed to the kit setup, and it accepts an extremely great deal of body styles. There’s also a bunch of tunability for individuals who like to tinker, which means that this car should grow along when your skills do.

FEATURE BREAKDOWN

The D4’s chassis is really a 3mm sheet of FRP, or Fiber-Reinforced Plastic. It has cutouts on the bottom for the front and back diffs to peek through together with a bazillion countersunk holes. The majority of these are used for mounting such things as the bulkheads, servo and battery box, but you will find quite a few left empty. They can be used to control chassis flex, although not using the stock top deck; an optional you need to be bought. The layout is similar to an ordinary touring car; front bulkhead/ suspension, steering system, electronics, battery box, motor mount system and finally the back bulkhead/ suspension. Things are readily accessible and replaceable with just a few turns of some screws.

? Other than a couple of interesting pieces, a drifter’s suspension is much like a touring car’s. An individual A and D mount and separate B and C mounts are utilized, both having dual support screws and stamped, metal shims to raise them up. The suspension arms have droop screws, anti-roll bar mounts and adjustable wheelbase shims. The rear suspension uses vertical ball studs to deal with camber and roll while the front uses a fascinating, dual pickup front Y-arm setup. This technique allows the adjustment of camber, caster and roll and swings smoothly on upper and lower pivot balls. It’s actually quite unique and permits some extreme camber settings.

? Something that’s pretty amazing with drift cars will be the serious quantity of steering throw they may have. Beginning from the bellcranks, they’re positioned as far apart and as next to the edges of the chassis as you possibly can. This produces a massive 65° angle, enough to regulate the D4 in even the deepest of slides. Since drifters spend almost all of their time sideways, I needed an excellent servo to keep up with the constant countersteering enter Futaba’s S9551 Low-Pro? le Digital Servo.

Although it is not needing anything near its 122 oz. of torque, the .11 speed is de? nitely enough to keep up with any steering angle changes I would like it a moment’s notice.

? The D4 utilizes a dual belt design, spinning a front, fluid-filled gear differential and rear spool. A huge, 92T 48P spur is coupled to the central gear shaft, in which the front and rear belts meet. Pulleys keep your front belt high higher than the chassis, and 3mm CVDs transfer the energy for the wheels. Standardized 12mm hexes are included to enable using a assortment of different wheel and tire combos.

? To provide the D4 a bit of beauty, I opted for 3Racing Wraith parts body from ABC Hobby. This is a beautiful replica of the car and included a slick set of decals, looking fantastic once mounted. I wasn’t sure how you can paint it, but I do remember a method I used quite some time back that got some attention. So, I gave the RX-3 an attempt of pearl white around the underside, but painted the fenders black externally. After everything was dry, I shot the outer using a coat of Tamiya Flat Clear. I like the final result … and it was easy. That’s good because I’m a very impatient painter!

ON THE TRACK

For this test, I needed the privilege of putting this four-wheel drifter upon the iconic Tamiya track in Aliso Viejo, CA. I had been heading there to do a photo shoot for one more vehicle and thought, heck, why not take it along and have some sideways action?

STEERING

The steering in the D4 is pretty amazing. While I mentioned earlier, the throw can be a whopping 65 degrees with zero interference from any parts. Even the CVD’s can make that far, allowing smooth input of power at full lock. Although it does look a bit funny using the tires turned that far (remember, I’m a touring car guy), the D4 does an amazing job of keeping the slide controlled and transferring the correct direction. This can be, partly, thanks to the awesome handling of the D4, but the speedy Futaba servo.

ACCELERATION/BRAKING

Drifting is not about overall speed but wheel speed controlled. I know that sounds odd, but when you’ve mastered the wheel speed of the drifter, you can control the angle of attack as well as the sideways motion through any corner. I stumbled upon Novak’s Drift Spec system allowed me to perform exactly that make controlled, smooth throttle modifications to change the angle of your D4 where and when I needed. Sliding in a little shallow? Increase throttle to have the tail end to whip out. Beginning to over cook the corner? Ease up a lttle bit along with the D4 would get back in line. It’s all a point of ? nesse, and the Novak system is designed for exactly that. I did so need to be a little bit creative with all the install in the system due to limited space in the chassis, but overall it worked out great.

HANDLING

After driving hooked up touring cars for some time, it will have a little becoming accustomed to with the knowledge that a vehicle losing grip and sliding is correctly round the track. It’s also good practice for managing throttle control as soon as you have it, it’s beautiful. Having a car and pitching it sideways via a sweeper, all the while keeping the nose pointed in at under several inches in the curb … it’s actually very rewarding. It’s a controlled out of control thing, along with the D4 would it wonderfully. The kit setup is great, but if you think such as you require more of something anything there’s lots of points to adjust. I actually enjoyed the vehicle with all the kit setup and yes it was only dependent on a battery pack or two before I found myself swinging the rear throughout the hairpins, throughout the carousel and forward and backward throughout the chicane. I never had a chance to strap the battery on the diffuser, but that’s something I’m looking towards.

DURABILITY

There’s little you can do to damage a drift car they’re not really going all of that fast. I did so, however, have an problem with the leading belt’s bearing pulley mounted to the peak deck. Through the initial run, it suddenly felt much like the D4 acquired a little drag brake. I kept from it, trying to overcome the problem with driving, but soon needed to RPM Traxxas slash parts it straight into actually take a look. In the build, the belt slips in to a plastic ‘tunnel’ which is maintained by a bearing, keeping it above any chassis mounted stuff like the ESC or servo. The belt, though, doesn’t sit square around the bearing; it’s half on and half off. So, once the drivetrain is spooling up, the belt will sometimes slide off of the bearing, ?opping around and catching on anything it comes in touch with. To ?x this, I simply 3raccingSakura a lengthier screw with a few 1mm shims to space the bearing out a little more. Problem solved.